Pipe boots
The rubber collar around a plumbing vent splits with UV exposure, usually well before the shingles are worn out. This is the single most common leak we find, and one of the cheapest to fix.
The stain on your ceiling is where the water finished. Repairing that spot fixes nothing, which is why so many leaks come back.
Water entering a roof does not drop straight down. It runs along the underside of the decking, follows a rafter until something interrupts it, and drips through the ceiling wherever gravity finally wins. On a low-pitch roof it can travel a considerable distance before it appears inside.
This is why diagnosis, not the repair itself, is the skilled part. The fix for most leaks is straightforward once you know where the water is getting in. Finding that point means working backwards from the evidence — the staining pattern in the attic, the run of the rafters, and the condition of every penetration and transition uphill of where the water shows.
It is also why a repair that seemed to work through a dry spell fails again in the next sustained rain. The original entry point was never found; the patch simply covered a place water happened to be passing.
The rubber collar around a plumbing vent splits with UV exposure, usually well before the shingles are worn out. This is the single most common leak we find, and one of the cheapest to fix.
Anywhere the roof meets a wall, a chimney or another slope, the waterproofing depends on a detail rather than on the shingle itself. Details fail.
A fastener backing out lifts the shingle slightly and creates a path straight through the deck. Individually tiny, and collectively responsible for a lot of ceiling stains.
A leak that only shows during heavy rain feels like a low priority. It is not, because the visible stain is the last stage of a process that has been running for a while.
Water entering a roof soaks the decking first, then the insulation below it. Wet insulation stops insulating, which raises your cooling costs long before anything appears on a ceiling. Wet decking loses structural strength and eventually needs replacing, turning a small repair into a partial rebuild. And in a Georgia summer, a damp enclosed cavity is close to ideal conditions for mold.
The gap between a split pipe boot and a repair involving decking, insulation and drywall is usually a matter of seasons rather than years. Catching it early is the difference between a modest invoice and a significant one.
Contain it first. A bucket under the drip and towels around it stop the water spreading into flooring and skirting. If the ceiling is bulging where water has pooled above the plasterboard, that weight will eventually come down on its own — puncturing it deliberately with a screwdriver, bucket underneath, drains it in a controlled way and usually saves the whole ceiling.
Move what you can out of the path. Furniture, rugs and anything electrical, and unplug fittings in the affected area rather than switching them off, because water tracks along joists and reaches ceiling roses well away from the visible drip.
Photograph everything, with the date. Wet ceiling, wet insulation, any belongings damaged. If a claim follows, the photographs taken while it is actively happening are far more persuasive than anything recorded afterwards, and they establish a timeline.
Do not go up on the roof. Wet decking is slippery and storm-weakened decking gives way without warning, which is a considerably worse outcome than a damaged ceiling.
Usually, yes. Intermittent leaks normally point to wind-driven rain from a particular direction, or to a detail that only fails under sustained water. Telling us the conditions when it appears narrows it down considerably.
Usually not. If the roof is otherwise sound, a leak is a repair. We will tell you plainly if the roof has reached the point where repairing is throwing money at it.
We repair the roof. Interior drywall and paint are a separate trade, though we can tell you what the interior damage looks like and whether it should wait for the roof to dry out first.
If it was caused by a sudden storm event, often yes. If it is age or wear, no. We document it either way so you can make that call with real information.
Almost always because the entry point was never found and the patch went over a spot the water was merely passing through. Water travels along decking and rafters before it drips, so the stain and the source are frequently several feet apart.
We can usually tarp to stop it immediately, but a permanent repair needs a dry surface for sealants and adhesives to bond. We will make it safe first and finish it properly once the weather allows.
Storm damage isn’t always visible from the ground. We’ll document what we find, walk you through the report, and tell you honestly whether you need a repair, a replacement, or nothing at all.